1976 Max Ferd Richter Mulheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Auslese

Pure nectar = pure beauty. Diesel, white peaches and a honeyed nose compliment floral aromas that lend a haunting elegance. The palate is thick, sweet and kissed by stone-fruit. The finish is incredible, long and palate consuming. This wine of the night, made possible by the honest work of acidity, was singularly inspiring effort.


1983 Dr. R. Weil Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Spatlese

Deep gold, with an immediate and promising offer of diesel. A gorgeous nose full of fresh citrus, mango, candied pineapple and a shimmering touch of orange blossom. Creamy, creamy palate with prickly, vibrant, buzzing acidity. Buxom but wasp-waisted. The flavors reflect the nose. Plump, ripe & tropical with a lingering finish. The acidity beautifully complements the fruit & balances the off-dry profile. Stunning stuff.

1976 Dr. Weil Kiedricher Wasseros Auslese

This Rheingau riesling is one of the most hedonistic wines, red or white, that I have ever had the pleasure of drinking. The top of the cork was very dirty and soft to the touch but other than that portion looked and smelled healthy. The wine itself showed less age than the cork, in fact the viscous juice presented itself in a rather energetic way with a vibrant pale copper-tinged gold and lively nose. My most immediate impression of the aromatics was the obvious presence of petrol and copious amounts of ripe fruit. More specifically the nose was rather exotic showing pineapple, pear, apricot and honey mixed with subtle notes of white flowers, namely honeysuckle. While the wine charged boldly out of the bottle ready to enjoy, the air did allow for some of the more subtle complexities to develop and show themselves. Underneath the fruit were notes of caramel, brown sugar, honey comb and beeswax, which all compounded the bountiful richness and complexity of the wine.

So far so good. The only thing that could have tripped this wine up would have been a clumsy, cloying, persistent sweetness on the palate, but considering the aromatic mastery and the quality of the fruit that is required for such a focused and clearly delineated melange of scents, this was all but an impossibility. As assumed, the palate lived up to the promises that the nose made and mirrored its perfume in taste. The sweetness was delicious and complimentary to the exotic and confectionery lean of the aromatics and the acid did its delightful job melting it all away, refreshing the palate, and making the mouth water for more. Perhaps as amazing as the beauty of the wine was the freshness that it displayed. If I were in the habit of rating wines for my personal hierarchy of drinking glory this would be awarded the highest possible score. This bottle was on point and truly heavenly.

1970 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett Riesling

This half bottle from the Mosel was a delight. In the glass the wine had a slightly hazy appearance and the color of aged gold. One sniff of the rich juice told me that the hazy look was nothing to be concerned with, all was right and healthy. Initially the richness was delivered in a simple, nutty and slightly sweet aroma. Very quickly this aroma began to expand into much more of a complex and complete bouquet; it remained, however, anchored to this subtly sweet richness throughout its evolution. If this wine were a time and place it would be autumn at your favorite breakfast spot. The nose, mirrored by the palate, was all over the sweet side of the menu with aromas of pecan pancakes, cinnamon bread, maple syrup, and apples in every stage of ripeness. The acid was impressivly alive (M+) and did what it should do in any good German riesling, melt away any lingering sweetness, refresh the palate, and make your mouth water for another sip. Between the richness of the fruit and the remaining acid, the balance was impeccable.

I was able to control the pace of my consumption and the wine continued to grow. Where there was once apple juice, there appeared apple cider and what was initially apple sauce, became a compote-like apple pie filling. There was a signature whiff of petrol woven in but really the wine stuck with its bakery, baking spice and apple presentation. So harmonious and complete was this wine in the picture it painted that, while it lasted, I was a child, visiting a farm on a brisk fall day, eating sugar donuts and drinking cider.