A dusty bottle with the clearest ruby red liquid resting inside. As the cork was pulled halfway out you could read the date and Morey St Denis Clos de la Bussiere. The nose was pure burgundy. Sweet bright cherries and earth with faint hints of menthol. The silky palate presented more lovely cherry and spice with seamless purity. Absolute perfection.
Clos de la Marechale is wine that is no longer made by Faiveley since the end of their metayage agreement with J.F. Mugnier. Made now by Mugnier, the quality of the Marechale parcel has suffered in recent years.
But this is the 1969 effort from Faiveley and it is delicious! With near brilliant clarity, the healthy aged color progresses from brick to apricot to salmon to a watery rim. The nose shows some alluring funk w/ a leathery masculine lean. Sweet, sweet, sweet on the palate. Fruit macerated in brown sugar, sappy & tertiary. Living its golden years now, this wine has clearly reached the apogee of its capabilities. As only a quality product can, this bottle has thrived in its old age by developing that most mysterious and attractive of wine profiles, antique burgundy.
Coming to us from an old Burgundy cellar, this 1943 finally got to get out and stretch its legs yesterday. The wine emerged from the bottle looking impressively alive, with healthy color, wrapped in a medicinal, earthy funk. The medicinal nature was the confluence of subtle notes of menthol, clove, petrol and more noisy aromas gauze and band-aid. Almost 100% of the time these “Dr. Office notes” are off-putting and ruin a wine, somehow here it was more pleasant. While the miracle of a drinkable 69 year old village wine may have had something to do with our ability to look past those less desirable aromas, the palate certainly helped and was the most impressive thing about this wine. The weight and texture were remarkable as the wine moved across the palate with lingering sweetness and lively acid. It was silky, luscious and a truly delightful mouthful.
Adding to it’s appeal was how the Chambolle behaved with time in the glass. Where the 1990 G.D. Chassagne Rouge (from earlier yesterday) started to fall apart after some time in glass, this ’43 actually broke the other way and grew into its medicinal funk, reigning it in, making it it’s own and incorporating it into a more rounded Burgundian perfume. This little village wine was lovely, but more than that it was fun and special to be drinking something bottled during the last World War!
This bottle was purchased on re-release from the Domaine. All aspects of this wine are of an antique Burgundy. The color is russet with little variation and the aromas play almost exclusively in the tertiary end of the pool. The perfume is dominated by a sweet fruit core wrapped in an iron/metallic robe and sets the wine on a slightly plodding track, this presentation is lifted only slightly by hints of catmint and briny ocean air. The palate is smooth and sweet but lacks the lift that benefits the nose, more acid may have really lit this wine up. In this vein, the wine is reminiscent of a sweet black tea. It is tasty enough to drink but would excel with just “a squeeze of lemon” to combat and balance the dark nature of the palate. Time in glass accomplishes little other than exposing a note of game. The wine is nice but considering the vintage and Grand Cru status of the vineyard, should exhibit far more pedigree; honestly it falls short.
It is interesting to understand that the production levels and availability of this simple village wine makes it more rare than either a 1er or Grand Cru from Vougeot. That being said, as it is still a village wine, it impressed me very much in what it had to offer. Drinking pleasure.
The wine showed good clarity with an aged rusty-red colors presented in various rings. The initial aromas were simple and of barnyard and earth. With time the wine began to offer a bit more complexity with a lovely perfumed presentation of licorice, dried flowers, and mint, all wrapped up in sweet raspberry. The palate is simple and delicious. Raspberry pervades and is carried by lively, tongue prickling acid. The wine is harmonious, balanced, and easy drinking. Almost reminiscent of a raspberry mint tea. It is a wine for a lazy afternoon in a rocking chair on a porch. Mmmm.
We start this one off only knowing that it is a Burgundy. It is medium mahogany with a russet, sunset rim. There is a real funk on the nose out of the gate that completely blows off in ten minutes. Vintage first. Clearly an older specimen…. Andrew guesses ’78-’83. Deb reasons that with the concentration it has & the polish, it has to be from a good 80s vintage –’85? Turns out to be an ’83, what?? an ’83??? Certainly a bit of a surprise for a vintage that definitely had its problems. The nose is of cinnamon, cold hearth, that sweet old Burgundy fruit nose we love, an antiquey whiff. Flavors of sweet stewed fruits and Christmas spice on the stove with a dash of smoke. This is really lovely – very polished! It clearly had a fair amount of stuffing in its day. Tannins are a touch grainy but fruit and acidity are nicely balanced. Wait – we are really not being enthusiastic enough – we loved this bottle! It was really beautiful & was so delightfully fresh that we drank it in about 15 minutes……crazy.
Vibrant, bright ruby with purple glints. Medium intensity aromas of perfumed red fruits layered with ripe cherry, raspberry and a touch of cola. The palate is bordering on full-bodied (14% abv), there is a whiff of heat on the nose. A slightly darker fruit profile when tasted, dark cherry, supple, acidity is crisp and gives the roundness of the mouthfeel a lift. Tannins are soft, integrated, but present – an able backbone. The feel is graceful, flavors are complex and concentrated, the style is feminine. Gets richer with air, gaining complexity and the already persistent, long dark cherry finish gets longer. Crazy balance.