Yesterday at lunch the Mission team checked in on two less sought after wines/vintages from 2 top-tier producers.
2003 Raveneau Chablis 1er Butteaux: Beautiful color, was the most positive note. By all accounts the wine was healthy but the normally racy, mineral driven character of Chablis was nowhere to be found in this effort. This wine suffered from its vintage and the result was its insipid profile. The only fully formed note taken was “nondescript creamy citrus,” which refers to both the nose and palate. With a bit of air some buttery notes emerged from the creaminess but not much else. As could be expected from the very warm vintage of 2003, the wine lacked assertive acid and rolled across the palate in a rather round, fleshy way. This is a pleasant drink that serves well as a luncheon wine but is not going to get better and may in fact begin to fall off before long. If you have any, drink up!
2004 Coche-Dury Bourgogne: This wine offered all of the pleasure that the Raveneau failed to. Only a simple Bourgogne, it was impressively expressive with a surprisingly sturdy frame and beautiful fruit. While 2004 is not exactly a heralded vintage, many fine wines were produced and at least one producer in particular felt her 2004s would be just as good as her 2002s. That producer was Anne Gros and her 2004 Clos Vougeot proves her point. A good producer can and should make good wine in every vintage, which is exactly what the legendary house of Coche-Dury has done. Even more impressive is that they did it at the “lowly” Bourgogne level. The wine showed energy, freshness and balance and is currently drinking at a very high level. To say much more would be gilding the lily and the name Coche-Dury speaks best for itself. Suffice to say that if MFW were to build “the perfect” drinking burgundy this could be the template. Find some and drink it!