1970 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett Riesling

This half bottle from the Mosel was a delight. In the glass the wine had a slightly hazy appearance and the color of aged gold. One sniff of the rich juice told me that the hazy look was nothing to be concerned with, all was right and healthy. Initially the richness was delivered in a simple, nutty and slightly sweet aroma. Very quickly this aroma began to expand into much more of a complex and complete bouquet; it remained, however, anchored to this subtly sweet richness throughout its evolution. If this wine were a time and place it would be autumn at your favorite breakfast spot. The nose, mirrored by the palate, was all over the sweet side of the menu with aromas of pecan pancakes, cinnamon bread, maple syrup, and apples in every stage of ripeness. The acid was impressivly alive (M+) and did what it should do in any good German riesling, melt away any lingering sweetness, refresh the palate, and make your mouth water for another sip. Between the richness of the fruit and the remaining acid, the balance was impeccable.

I was able to control the pace of my consumption and the wine continued to grow. Where there was once apple juice, there appeared apple cider and what was initially apple sauce, became a compote-like apple pie filling. There was a signature whiff of petrol woven in but really the wine stuck with its bakery, baking spice and apple presentation. So harmonious and complete was this wine in the picture it painted that, while it lasted, I was a child, visiting a farm on a brisk fall day, eating sugar donuts and drinking cider.


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