2004 Girardin Meursault 1er Les Perrieres

While 2004 was possibly the most mediocre vintage in the last decade for red Burgundy, the whites have often impressed me. This bottle impressed me. The wine is very pale almost to the point of being clear but tinged with gold and showing a star-bright clarity. Straight out of the bottle the nose was sharpened to a point by bright aromas of lemon and concentrated minerality. The palate told the same story with bright acid dominating but not overpowering the experience. With air this tightly wound package then began to relax itself and what had been thoroughly zesty became softer and more round. Richer notes appeared on the nose with a touch of cream complimenting the lemon and a lovely nutty note adding its voice. The palate gained richness as well adding to the cream, notes of ripe stone fruit. As the bottle dwindled a subtle honeyed note appeared, bringing the wine to its final delicious incarnation before the last was consumed. The wine was very clean, highly focused and most importantly balanced. A great effort.

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