By all accounts, the 88s were forever coming around. Ok, so Jancis was right about the 20 year wait. This one has arrived and showing a deep garnet core fading to a brick rim, announces himself assertively with a beautiful expressive nose with foresty, smoke-tinged, asian-spiced aromatics. The flavors are are of earth, forest and meat. Yes, it’s a man! Although the mouthfeel is round with plenty of fruit to balance the acidity, it still suggests masculinity because of that persistent meatiness & sturdy tannins. The flavors are deep and layered, the finish is sweet and laced with game. Drunk mid-October at Staten Island’s own Ruddy & Dean North Shore Steak House, terrific lunch, terrific company, terrific wine.